Buckow — Märkische Schweiz, Brecht & Brandenburg Hills

Brandenburg is famously flat. Märkische Schweiz is the exception. Its name — “Mark of Brandenburg’s Switzerland” — was given ironically in the 19th century by Berliners who found the area’s gentle morainic hills, clear lakes, and dense beech-oak forests so comparatively dramatic that they coined the nickname half in jest. By actual alpine standards, these are obviously not mountains. But as an escape from the open plain that extends in every direction from Berlin, the short, sharp valleys and wooded ridges of the Naturpark Märkische Schweiz are quietly extraordinary.

The market town of Buckow sits at the centre of the park and makes the ideal base for day trips from Berlin.

Getting there from Berlin

By train and bus: RE1 from Berlin Ostbahnhof east to Müncheberg (Mark) (approximately 55 minutes), then regional bus 928 south to Buckow town centre (approximately 25 minutes, runs roughly every two hours). Check schedules carefully — the bus frequency is limited and missing the connection means a significant wait. The Brandenburg ticket covers both legs.

By car: A12 east from Berlin to exit Frankfurt/Oder-West, then south-west on B1 and B168 to Buckow, approximately 65–70 km and 55 minutes. Parking is available in the town centre and near the lake.

The Naturpark: hiking routes and landscape

The Naturpark Märkische Schweiz covers around 205 km² of the Märkisch-Oderland plateau. The landscape was shaped by the Weichsel glaciation, which left a corrugated surface of lakes, hidden valleys, and forest ridges. Several of the lakes are among the clearest in Brandenburg due to low agricultural pressure.

Walking routes are well-marked and clearly signposted. The classic circuit, the Buckower Rundweg (roughly 12 km, 3–4 hours), connects Buckow lake with the Martinsee, Mühlensee, and Tornowsee through mixed beech and oak forest. The path includes several viewpoints over the lake chain. A shorter version of 7 km stays close to the Buckower See and is suitable for families.

The Lindenallee — an avenue of ancient lime trees connecting Buckow to the surrounding villages — is one of Brandenburg’s finest examples of historic rural planting.

Bertolt Brecht and Helene Weigel’s Sommerhäuser

Between 1952 and 1956, playwright Bertolt Brecht and his wife and artistic collaborator Helene Weigel spent their summers in Buckow. In this period Brecht wrote the Buckow Elegies, a cycle of short poems among the last he produced before his death in 1956 — contemplative, disillusioned, sometimes acerbic, shot through with the landscape around him.

The Bertolt-Brecht-Weigel-Haus at Bertolt-Brecht-Straße 30 preserves both properties — Brecht’s small writing house and Weigel’s separate villa — roughly as they were left. The museum is open Wednesday to Sunday from 11:00 to 17:00 (May to October), admission approximately €5 adults. The interiors include Brecht’s library, writing desk, and personal effects; Weigel’s rooms document her career as an actress at the Berliner Ensemble. The garden is remarkable: orderly, quiet, and largely unchanged.

For anyone interested in 20th-century German literature or theatre, this is one of the more unexpectedly moving small museums in the Berlin region.

Swimming and water sports

The Buckower See has a well-maintained public beach (Strandbad) on its southern shore with sandy entry, changing facilities, and lifeguard supervision in summer. Water is clean and visibility is excellent; swimming is popular from June through August when surface temperatures reach 22–24°C. Entry to the public beach area is free.

Pedalos and rowing boat hire is available from the jetty adjacent to the beach, typically from around €8–12 per hour.

Where to eat in Buckow

The small town has several traditional Gaststätten and cafés clustered around the Marktplatz and along the lake promenade. Schloss Buckow — a small manor house converted to a hotel and restaurant — serves Brandenburg regional cooking at moderate prices with a pleasant garden terrace. The Strandcafé am Buckower See is the casual lakeside option, with fish dishes and Brandenburg specialities.

Note that options are limited in Buckow compared to a larger town — the settlement has a permanent population of only around 2,000. One or two restaurants may be closed on weekdays outside peak season.

Practical planning tips

• Bus timing: the 928 bus runs roughly every two hours; plan your return journey carefully. The last bus from Buckow back to Müncheberg is typically around 18:00–19:00 on weekdays (check current schedules at VBB.de).
• Brandenburg ticket: valid for the full journey. For groups of 3–5, this represents excellent value.
• What to wear: good walking shoes are recommended for the forest trails, which can be muddy after rain. The terrain, while gentle, is uneven.
• Autumn visits: October is exceptional — the beech forest on the morainic ridges turns gold and copper, and visitor numbers drop sharply after summer. One of Brandenburg’s best autumn hikes.
• Museum opening: the Brecht-Weigel house is only open May to October. Confirm hours before visiting in shoulder season.

Combining with other Brandenburg destinations

Buckow pairs well with Bad Saarow — both are in the Oder-Spree lake district, and by car they are about 30 km apart. A full day could include morning at Buckow’s forest trails and afternoon at the Saarow Therme. Rheinsberg is 80 km to the north-west — too far for a single day without staying overnight, but an option for a multi-day Brandenburg loop. Tropical Islands is 60 km south by car.

Frequently asked questions about Buckow

How do I get from Berlin to Buckow by public transport?

Take the RE1 from Berlin Ostbahnhof to Müncheberg (Mark), then bus 928 south to Buckow. The total journey is approximately 80 minutes. The Brandenburg ticket covers both legs. Bus frequency is roughly every two hours — check the VBB journey planner before departing.

What makes the Märkische Schweiz special compared to the rest of Brandenburg?

The morainic landscape creates short hills, hidden valleys, and a series of clean glacial lakes that are unusual for Brandenburg’s otherwise flat terrain. The beech-oak forest cover is among the densest in the region. The Naturpark has been protected since 1929, longer than almost any other reserve in the area.

Is the Brecht-Weigel museum worth visiting?

For anyone interested in 20th-century German literature and theatre, yes. The preserved interiors, library, and garden are understated but genuinely evocative. The museum is open May to October, Wednesday through Sunday. Admission is approximately €5.

Can you swim in the Buckower See?

Yes. The public beach (Strandbad Buckow) on the southern shore has free access, changing facilities, and lifeguard supervision in summer. The water is exceptionally clear — among the best lake swimming in the Berlin region.

Is Buckow suitable for a day trip from Berlin?

Yes, comfortably. Arriving by mid-morning allows time for a forest hike, a visit to the Brecht house, lunch in town, and a swim before the return bus. The limited bus frequency means planning the return journey carefully.

What is the best time of year to visit Buckow?

Late May to early October for the full experience (hiking, swimming, museum). October is particularly beautiful for the autumn foliage. Winter visits are atmospheric but the Brecht museum is closed and bus services are reduced.